When the day's writing was done, we took a long, long walk around Toulouse, despite the heat, tracing the old wall and the walking along the Canal de Brienne, a welcome green stretch.
One of the wonderful features of Toulouse is its green space of trees and water: the canal de Brienne, the tree-lined boulevards that trace the lies of the old ramparts, the 18th century gardens and the Garonne itself. When planning the Grand Urban project currently on-going in Toulouse, this green heritage was placed in the credit side of the ledger, something to preserve and enhance. On the liability side were the crush of traffic and what was defined as a lack of urban coherence and "lisabilité". It isn't even clear where the centre ville starts and ends.
How interesting the word "lisabilité" is! It doesn't have an English equivalent. The literal English translation would be "readability"--how easily one can make sense of and understand a written text--but here the meaning of "comprehend, make sense of and understand" is applied to a city landscape. Lisabilité also seems related to the English word ergonomics-th
e design of systems that can be used easily, intelligently and safely by users.
The goal of the architect who designed the piece of the project that caught my attention this year, the Place St-Pierre, was to open up the city to the water of the Garonne. These monumental staircases certainly do that, and I think that the overall vision of the staircase is splendid; it could make the Place St Pierre the Toulouse equivalent of the Spanish Steps in Rome (especially if the plaza space above includes fountains and trees.)
Nevertheless, not to be a critic, but...
First, I found architect's drawings and was surprised to discover that trees were part of the original design. I suppose trees on a staircase are never feasible, but it seems to me that shade will be an issue, at least when its hot. Note the people huddled in the shadow of the bridge in fourth photo. On the other hand, in cool weather, these solar collectors might be fantastic. I can imagine fireworks and concerts on floating stages here.
Secondly, note that Garonne is open. I love that! American city planners would feel obliged to put up some kind of guard rail, just in case. Still, it is easy to imagine that poor drunken students will eventually end up in the Garonne.
But, overall, what a fascinating, bold civic project. I admire the decision to privilege bikes and pedestrians in the hypercenter and the integrity of a design which seeks to enhance the old, preserve the good and improve the urban "lisabilité." I also admire the holistic approach taken (the whole hyper-center is re-envisioned) rather than a piecemeal approach, and my jaw drops at a political system which has made it possible. I can't imagine a project of this scale happening in Minneapolis or Saint Paul.
In the evening of this hot day, thanks to my belated discovery of google restaurant ratings ("Welcome to 2005," scoffed my incredulous son) we went to the La Cave Au Cassoulet" on the rue de Peyrolliéres for dinner. Cassoulet, King of Southwestern cuisine, is a food for cold winter nights not blazing heat. So as a tourist, visiting in hot June, what to do?
La Cave Au Cassoulet was a perfect solution. They specialize in cassoulet, so it was wonderfully authentic, and because they are located in a charming cave, a Toulousain basement of brick, it was cool enough. Our waiters were charming Gascons, hardy, enthusiastic and justly proud of their cuisine. We had a delicious meal.